Stalling in 2nd & reverse

[Supra8HP]

Hey guys
Currently have my Supra running and driving on the 8hp70. Using the N57 petrol base map. The car stalls when letting off the brake in both 2nd and reverse. After driving for 20 minutes or so it won’t stall anymore in those gears but the rpm’s drop very low and it stumbles. I enabled (enable slipt strategy) and (enable slept all the time) and it doesn’t stall anymore but the gear engages and shifts are much harder now. I’m nervous I’m going to mess up the clutches. Any advice?

[M4comp]

Not knowing much about your setup, the most important thing here is your TPS, MAP and RPM must match what your ECU shows. I don't know what else is set so I throw a bunch of info at you.

If your TPS is not at 0% when at idle enable DBW Input Sensor Cal -> Sensor Input -> DBW Input. This must match your TPS Input just above it (use same value ). I.E.. engine running at idle in tunerpro the TPS shows something not 0% (means your seeing the DBW% not the foot pedal) enable DBW Input.

In Torque Calculation, set your Torque calculation input to '0' if using an aftermarket ECU. Disable Automatic detection of torque input (uncheck set). Enable Add CAN Engien Loss (check set). Look at your ecu and make note of the idle rpm when hot and the idle vacuum. Make sure in Cal: Pres/Torque table your tq value at that same idle location is not some ridiculously large value idle.

Next in RPM Limit -> Automatic Setings, Look at Automatic gear cheange UP TPS% and Automatic gear change DOWN TPS%. These tables are for a bmw that idled at 550rpm. you need to change these tables to match your idle. Go to the turbolamik site and look through the manual and understand the gear/map/swap and how selector position affects it.

In Lockup Setings, make sure your lockup on settings are not 'on' while idling you need it to enable at least 200rpm or more above your idle. Use Lock ON Input and Lockup ON RPM/TPS tables. Also have a look at the manual for the gear/map/swap function here as well. Make sure P1 activate limited lockup slip and P2 activate limited lockup slip are checked. I've seen some files where they are not always set. This will allow the lockup to release during slipt enable.

Still in RPM LIMIT look at the Max RPM Limit, Min. RPM Limit 2-1, Min. RPM Limit 8-2 and Earlier reductions on foot brake ON tables. These tables need adjusted to match your idle RPM. The higher the RPM value the sooner a down shift will be allowed. IF your down shifting and it's taking too long to get back into 2nd or 1st this is your problem. The foot brake reduction will allow you to speed that up even faster. Using a value of 200 is not always needed so 100 may work for you.

In Transmision Cal -> Clutch Slipt Strategy, In my experience the convertor is way to tight. Unless you have diesel tq the OEM convertor will never idle perfect. The fix is to enable Slipt strategy but you need to tune it.
Next set Minimum Clutch Pres. Drive table to some value that allows the car to roll and not drag the motor down to much when going from N to 1st,2nd. 22 is the default if thats too much try 15-20. You'll find a number where 16 pulls hard and 15 lets say will fell better. You'll have to balance this with Add Pres. Footbrake OFF. So when trying to creep forward when very light brake is used, it needs to pull you just enough. When you release the brake it needs to be more positive but not jerk. The table Minimum Idle RPM needs to be about 150 to 200 rpm ABOVE your idle rpm. I wouldn't go higher but it will affect slipt at low speeds. The table Clouset time needs to be changed to a lower value. Try 10 seconds or even 5. Disable Engine RPM needs to be way lower than your idle rpm. If your idle rpm drops below this value it will turn off slipt and sit on convertor. I would set this value very low like 300rpm. If you enable slipt all the time this table will be ignored ( I would enable it but it's intended for smaller engines when the trans fluid is hot idle good on the convertor) .

[Supra8HP]

Thank you very much for the detailed reply!
Some of this I understand, Other stuff seems to be way over my head. I’m hoping turbolamik support can log in and set up some of the more difficult settings for me. But I’m waiting to hear back from them.

[Supra8HP]

Not knowing much about your setup, the most important thing here is your TPS, MAP and RPM must match what your ECU shows. I don't know what else is set so I throw a bunch of info at you.

If your TPS is not at 0% when at idle enable DBW Input Sensor Cal -> Sensor Input -> DBW Input. This must match your TPS Input just above it (use same value ). I.E.. engine running at idle in tunerpro the TPS shows something not 0% (means your seeing the DBW% not the foot pedal) enable DBW Input.

In Torque Calculation, set your Torque calculation input to '0' if using an aftermarket ECU. Disable Automatic detection of torque input (uncheck set). Enable Add CAN Engien Loss (check set). Look at your ecu and make note of the idle rpm when hot and the idle vacuum. Make sure in Cal: Pres/Torque table your tq value at that same idle location is not some ridiculously large value idle.

Next in RPM Limit -> Automatic Setings, Look at Automatic gear cheange UP TPS% and Automatic gear change DOWN TPS%. These tables are for a bmw that idled at 550rpm. you need to change these tables to match your idle. Go to the turbolamik site and look through the manual and understand the gear/map/swap and how selector position affects it.

In Lockup Setings, make sure your lockup on settings are not 'on' while idling you need it to enable at least 200rpm or more above your idle. Use Lock ON Input and Lockup ON RPM/TPS tables. Also have a look at the manual for the gear/map/swap function here as well. Make sure P1 activate limited lockup slip and P2 activate limited lockup slip are checked. I've seen some files where they are not always set. This will allow the lockup to release during slipt enable.

Still in RPM LIMIT look at the Max RPM Limit, Min. RPM Limit 2-1, Min. RPM Limit 8-2 and Earlier reductions on foot brake ON tables. These tables need adjusted to match your idle RPM. The higher the RPM value the sooner a down shift will be allowed. IF your down shifting and it's taking too long to get back into 2nd or 1st this is your problem. The foot brake reduction will allow you to speed that up even faster. Using a value of 200 is not always needed so 100 may work for you.

In Transmision Cal -> Clutch Slipt Strategy, In my experience the convertor is way to tight. Unless you have diesel tq the OEM convertor will never idle perfect. The fix is to enable Slipt strategy but you need to tune it.
Next set Minimum Clutch Pres. Drive table to some value that allows the car to roll and not drag the motor down to much when going from N to 1st,2nd. 22 is the default if thats too much try 15-20. You'll find a number where 16 pulls hard and 15 lets say will fell better. You'll have to balance this with Add Pres. Footbrake OFF. So when trying to creep forward when very light brake is used, it needs to pull you just enough. When you release the brake it needs to be more positive but not jerk. The table Minimum Idle RPM needs to be about 150 to 200 rpm ABOVE your idle rpm. I wouldn't go higher but it will affect slipt at low speeds. The table Clouset time needs to be changed to a lower value. Try 10 seconds or even 5. Disable Engine RPM needs to be way lower than your idle rpm. If your idle rpm drops below this value it will turn off slipt and sit on convertor. I would set this value very low like 300rpm. If you enable slipt all the time this table will be ignored ( I would enable it but it's intended for smaller engines when the trans fluid is hot idle good on the convertor) .

I went through all of this last night and updated a lot of the map and saved it so I could upload it today. A lot of this made more sense once I had the software open and could see the tables. I’ll do some more research on the turbolamik manual. Thanks again for taking the time to help out.