Haltech Lamik setup

[mr2peak]

Hi,

How do I set this up for Haltech? Do I need to use the Haltech I/O expansion box connections, or does Lamik send the necessary information "behind the scenes"?

There is other data I would like to send over the other 8 CAN streams, if I don't need them to run the Lamik.

I want blips and cuts. Do I have to set up paddle shift flat shift on the ECU, or will Lamik relay this information without me creating extra settings?

[M4comp]

You need to get the ECU talking to the TCU first. To do that you set
CAN -> Can2 -> Can2A Type Car = 8 (haltech ecu).

Under Custom Can TX .
You need to set the Send ID to 704.
Under the same folder set Analog Can Out to the analogs your want to send.
Analog Can Out maximum value to 4095 ( can't recall but might be 4096 ). I can't remember the AD values for the haltech Can stream. I'll look tomorrow once I'm back in the garage.
If you want to send the second CAN IO box values (last 4 analogs) enable Send ID+1.

Turn off Can2B.

Set Can2 Speed to the bus speed your running in the haltech (1Mbps).

Verify you see MAP, TPS, RPM on the TCU and they are all correct! Connect your brake pedal input from the TCU to either the brake switch or to the haltech on a spare output.

Then... Do all your TQ calculations for the trans, Cal: Pres/Torque, Presure/Torque Multiplier, Torque Multiplier if need be. Work out all your Program modes for your dial to make it shift like you want (sport modes etc..).

And Then.... in haltech enable flat shift, your cut preference and select the analog that repersents the cut value your sending over via CAN. The Analog Can Out analogs1-8 you setup earlier in the TCU.

And Then And Then... In the TCU work on your Torque Reduction and Blip values. You can test it with the TQ Reduction Test and set it to foot brake to get the Haltech setup correct and verify that side.

[M4comp]

Analog Can Out maximum value to 4095

CAN -> Can 2 (Engine) ->Custom Can RX -> Read custom ECU ID should equal 864.

[TuneTechnic]

Then... Do all your TQ calculations for the trans, Cal: Pres/Torque, Presure/Torque Multiplier, Torque Multiplier if need be. Work out all your Program modes for your dial to make it shift like you want (sport modes etc..).

Do you have any more guidance to setting up the above torque calculations?

[M4comp]

Do you have any more guidance to setting up the above torque calculations?

So as you imagined, not a simple question on the tuning side. For the actual inputs I pretty much covered it in the previous reply. Was there something specific your having issues with? The rest below is what I do to calibrate the shifts.


For tuning I normally start with the following:

1. The 'Cal: Pres/ Torque table' attached is only used to cover the NA side of the motor. If you have boost you'll need to also adjust the 'Pressure/Torque Multiplier' table.
2. The Ecu calibration must be correct. If it hesitates or stumbles that will need to be cleaned up first.
3. Make sure your MAP, RPM and TPS are all correct. You'll be wasting a ton of time if not. If your TPS value in the TCU software is not 'zero' at idle. Meaning the value sent from the ECU is not showing the APP value and instead uses the DBW position. This means the TCU software will display the 'idle' % of the DBW. You'll need to set 'Sensor Cal. -> Sensor input -> DBW Input' value = to 'TPS Input'. If using a Haltech or most other aftermarket ECU's you would use 13 for both. This will zero out the TPS value used. You don't want to have a positive value all the time this will make braking downshifts or downshifts in general suck. So foot off throttle and at idle - TPS should show 0.0%.
4. If you have active error codes don't bother with any adjustments. Resolve the errors. You can also go to the toolbar in the TCU software and right click, look for 'Send command' and select it. This will allow you to clear error codes and history error codes. On the toolbar make sure the drop down that appeared is set to 'Reset Errors' and press 'Send' to clear codes with live data active. If the code is not active it will clear without a power cycle.
5. If you run a large duration cam and have no idle vacuum. You'll need to treat it like a diesel and use the 'Torque Correction TPS' table. Since little throttle changes pretty much take the TQ table straight to its wide open range of 100kpa map. The TPS correction will allow you to feather in the TQ and not go straight to a very large TQ value from the 'Cal: Pres/ Torque table'.
6. Don't even waste your time trying to adjust the 'Cal: Pres/ Torque table' with cold trans fluid. You have cold corrections being applied. If you lower the firmness while cold the hot shift times will be slower and may not hold the engine back. Slip = Bad. Start making changes once the temps are ~50c +. Doing cold correction tuning is beyond this and requires lots of datalogs over several days.
7. Never ever start with low values, start large and work it down because Slip = Bad. Rough guess start with 80 to 150 on the TQ table at your idle/rpm values. The table attached has an engine that idles at 850 rpm and 60 kpa. The negative values are engine braking.
8. Get used to dataloging. Don't do anything without a datalog. You'll have no way to confirm a change. Study the shift times and the slip during all conditions. In a nutshell a lower value is a slower shift/softer. A larger number is firmer and faster. The two datalog images show slip.

The torque values in the table have nothing to do with actual TQ. Also the same engine/trans in 3 different cars will use 3 different 'Cal: Pres/ Torque tables'. Everything affects this table, like weight of the car, rear gear ratio,temp, and even which trans fluid you select.

So with very light throttle in your start gear 1 or 2, pull away and very slowly apply throttle keeping in mind what RPM the shift happens at. If the shift is too firm, lower the TQ table value at the point and watch the shift time in the datalog. Sometimes a "good" shift isn't good in the datalog. It may need a little more. Always verify it multiple times and don't assume one change is good enough. Then repeat with a slightly more aggressive throttle and repeat 1 -3 gears. This will get the table in the take off area cleaned up. You'll need to blend the areas around it for a smooth transition to WOT. As you advance up you'll need to keep an eye on slip. I can almost guarantee the cold shifts will be off. Make 1-3 shift correctly to WOT and then work on the other gears. Typlically the Get the warm side done and get all the adaptations completed. Then circle back to improve the cold correction.

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slip_ok.JPG (113.16 KiB) Viewed 981 times

slip_notok.JPG (119.81 KiB) Viewed 981 times

Torque Table Internal TQ calc2.jpg (67.22 KiB) Viewed 981 times