Adaptation

[Nmr_fabrication]

Hi Folks.

Okay, so right in the beginning I had some troubles with code 20 and 21. This was the next day I've got the gearbox in. So after some adaptation I drove about 1000kms.
So a week ago code 20 and 21 showed up again, mostly after pulling with some torque. Got it one time, 2 times and after that more often.
So after a couple of times adaptation the problem seems to be fixed. (Don't know for how long)

Am I do something wrong with adaptation? (Picture)
Adaptation numbers don't say anything to be..

[M4comp]

Those errors are for both speed sensors and nothing to do with adaption. The errors are due to the TCU not getting a signal back from the speed sensors. Create a log file and look at your input and output speed and see if it's dropping out.

[Nmr_fabrication]

Clear. I will do that.

I think it's strange both of the codes are showing up.
Logically if there is one sensor that keep throwing codes i would say its only showing 20, OR 21.
Speedometer keeps reading when it drops out of gear and codes shows up, so I think the longer one (pump side) would be good. This is the sender (correct me if I'm wrong)
Both codes showing up everytime. Gives me headaches right now. Maybe because it's my first 8hp build and this one isn't going easy..
When I turning off the ignition, and start all over it drives again by some time.. I can drive some km's when I drive like a old lady, but when I hit the throttle for once it's throwing codes right away.

However, I will check my parameters.

[M4comp]

Take a look at the log and see if your getting a negative slipt value with positive tq during your shifts/decel. Other than that make sure the crimps are good on the TurboLamik controller (if you made the harness). The errors are for a disconnected sensor so the points of connection are limited as you know. Solder connections at the PCB in the trans causes everyone headaches.

[Nmr_fabrication]

Well im kinda lost in this one.
Changed 3 different sets of mechatronics all with new chips in it but everytime something else. Then its a oil temp that goes up and down, then its only code 21. Then 20 and 21. All with different mechatronics.
Checked the whole loom, even changed the single wire from the loom that goes to the speed sensor. changed the complete gearbox itself, changed computers, new base map etc.
Still thinking its in the mechatronics since this is the only electronic part in the gearbox.
I think there's no doubt about the solder connections.
It looks pretty clean imo. Also checked there is no ground on soldered pins.
I covered up the pcb with window sealant for only the connections, don't think this would be a problem.
So the question is, is it common that the mechatronics fail this often?
We would go on a vacation with the car in about 2 weeks to Sweden, but I'm really planning to put the patrol gearbox back on and go on vacation with it.
Kinda done with this after 8 times of getting the gearbox apart.
Ordered a new mechatronics, and I'm thinking of doing the wire conversion on the pcb right away.

Only thing that noticed me is de pinout on the pcb. There's no connection needed between C12 and C4. But there are connections on the pcb. So I've soldered them. But if I'm looking on the internet there are pcb boards without those solder points on the pcb. Maybe this is the point we're its going wrong.

[Nmr_fabrication]

Okay, small update.
I've cut the pcb unit out of the mechatronic/electronic unit, and did a test with the wires. Not yet the ptfe type of wire but just normal wire, just to test outside the car.
Soldered them all in, and no codes..
I will get some ptfe wire and solder it into another mechatronic/electronic unit that I've tried the last time with codes 20 and 21.
Will put everything together and I will try. Almost cannot believe the problems are caused by the pcb board, since the connections are looking good.

[M4comp]

Glad you found it. The PCB causes everyone issues. If you solder a PCB on make sure to take a small grinder and remove the coating on top of the pins in the backplane. Then get a butane solder iron (it's the only thing I've found that gets hot enough) and use a good solder. When I go to track events you wouldn't believe how many ask me to help with this same issue. Going forward use the wire method - pic attached - I've never had an issue and the soldering is much easier.