ANALOG RPM INPUT

[JACKDYNAMIC01]

Hi Team,

Currently trying to hook up the rpm input into the lamik, using the rpm signal from the Toyota injector pump. I have got an rpm converter fitted to the feed to help stabilise the pulses, but still getting nothing through to the lamik.

Engine rpm input is set to 2

Engine speed input sensitive voltage I have set to 5 (as in giving it a 5v feed).

The injector pumps gear has 37 teeth.

Any advice is welcome cheers

[M4comp]

Need a bit more info to answer this.

Does the voltage stay hi when checking it with a voltmeter? Meaning it sits at 5v with engine running?
Does the voltage stay lo when checking it with a voltmeter? Meaning it sits at 0v with engine running?

Are you wired to pin 65 of the TCU?

Set the Scalar value of Sensor Cal -> Analog engine speed -> Engine Speed Input (number of teeth) = 37

Set the Scalar value of Sensor Cal -> Analog engine speed -> Engine Speed Input Filtering = 36

Set the Scalar value of Sensor Cal -> Analog engine speed -> Engine Speed Input Sensitive Voltage = to 2.0 or 2.5 (assuming input voltage is 5v)

Set the Scalar value of Sensor Cal -> Sensor Input -> Engine RPM Input = 2

[JACKDYNAMIC01]

That’s perfect. I think I’ve got it all sorted . Thanks for your help!

[XSSV80]

Hi,

Im currently doing this swap to in my hdj80, off the fuel pump there is a 3 wire plug, I beleive the rpm sensor is the black wire, we cut and spliced the rpm wire for the lamik from there. But it doesn't seem to register inside the lamik, and when it's connected to the lamik there is no tach in the car anymore.

I see you are using a rpm converter, someone else that did the same swap with the same engine told me his one runs without the converter. Whats the go?

Thanks heaps

[logan08]

Hi all,

glad to see others doing the swap into the 80.

Im having a issue where the lamik will constantly be seeing 300 rpm even when its just the key on acc.

for context Im on pin 65, I have 11.9v when on acc and 6v ish with it running (note I have a JRE converter in line), I also have tried 36 teeth as well as 24 teeth and have the engine speed input sensitivity voltage to 5v with no avail.

I did initially try without the voltage converter but had no luck.

any help on the topic would be much appreciated.

note its behind a 1HDT-FT.

[XSSV80]

Hi Logan,

I also had this issue, but it seemed to go away when engine started. I haven't dialed my RPM in yet as I also need a analog rpm converter. Rasmus and myself tried for a while to setup it up without a converter but the rpm signal is too weak/messy. I'll be sorting mine out this friday so I'll update with settings when its all happy.
Also, are you a 3 pin injector plug? I have talked to someone also with a 1hdft running a lamik whos injector pump only had a two pin plug, he didn't require a rpm converter. Probably helpful info for others in the future.
Also regarding my last comment, it wasn't the black wire, it was the Black with Red trace wire for RPM signal positive.

[logan08]

Hi xssv80, yea it's a three wire plug coming off the injector pump, Im 99 % sure I've spliced into the signal wire (black wire broken red trace, I believe the positive feed to the pump is black wire solid red trace) please correct me if I'm wrong.

looking forward to hearing what your settings are when dialled, as Im still stumped why Im getting 300rpm all the time.

what converter are you going with?

cheers

[M4comp]

looking forward to hearing what your settings are when dialled, as Im still stumped why Im getting 300rpm all the time.

If your getting an RPM value, what happens when you change
Sensor Cal -> Analog engine speed -> Engine Speed Input (number of teeth) = 37

to
Engine Speed Input (number of teeth) = 18

[XSSV80]

Update on my specific rpm issue, Having it bounce around 500~ rpm, erratically, analog rpm converter didn't solve that issue. I went to a auto electrician today and he oscillioscoped the rpm signal wire, it looks like the injector pump signal wire is too messy, theres some interferrance. He thinks it may be a bad earth, or the injector pump rpm sensor could just be abit rough (I have a 300hp KRAE pump). So no solution yet, no doubt I'll spend all weekend trying to come up with a fix

[logan08]

looking forward to hearing what your settings are when dialled, as Im still stumped why Im getting 300rpm all the time.

If your getting an RPM value, what happens when you change
Sensor Cal -> Analog engine speed -> Engine Speed Input (number of teeth) = 37

to
Engine Speed Input (number of teeth) = 18

tried this morning with no good results, also tried 24 teeth but no change in result. it seems weird to me that its constantly at 300rpm with no change with engine on of off, I would of thought that even with the wrong tooth count the rpm should change. I've got an oscilloscope coming in early next week so at least then I can confirm what signal the lamik is seeing.

wondering if picking up off the w terminal on the alternator would be another option? and if so would the tooth count just be the number of poles?
at least then the voltage converter can be taken out of the question.

cheers