Bit of research...

[Mitus]

I don't have a turbolamik tcu yet but have been reading up on them and trying to get some things straight in my head!
The aftermarket ECU I use isn't on the "supported" list but it can send data over CAN such as RPM, MAP and TPS%. This is all at a fixed frequency of 20Hz and I noticed that this data set is at 50Hz on the lamik. Is this a problem and if so can the lamik be changed to 20Hz to match? And if there is a way to make it work, is 20Hz a fast enough sample rate for engine RPM?

2nd question is more mechanical and not tcu related but I figured you guys would probably know - when the gearbox is bolted to the engine, should there be a ~3mm gap between the flexplate and torque converter? This is a rule of thumb with older auto boxes so when you tighten the torque converter bolts it gets pulled towards the flexplate to give it room to grow and not put pressure against the oil pump drive. I want to make my own adapter plate for my application and need to know if I need to allow extra room for this gap or have it all pretty snug in there

[Jar]

Hi, You should start with information about your car... What car? What engine? What engine ECU?

Yes, in an 8hp there should also be some play, just like in older gearboxes. About 2mm is fine.

[Mitus]

Thanks for clarifying about the torque converter gap.

As for what car, I actually want to do the conversion twice...
Car 1 is an AC Cobra replica kit car using an engine from an early 2000s Jaguar XKR/XJR designated as an AJ-V8. It looks to me that an 8HP70 from an F-Type Jaguar 3.0l will bolt straight to this engine, hopefully will confirm this in a few days time. Torque converter bolt pattern is different but should be able to redrill the flexplate. This will be run by an Emerald K3 ECU.

Car 2 is a 1970 El Camino with a 454 "big block". This is the car I need to make the adapter plate for. I am again going to use the Jaguar F-Type 8HP; they're reasonably cheap here in the UK and have a bell housing big enough to accommodate the flexplate diameter. Flexplate on this engine will also need redrilling but that’s probably the easiest bit! Essentially the same ECU on this car but a later version with some extra features; an Emerald K6.

Both versions of the ECU use the same CAN protocol and 20Hz frequency. Neither engine will see North of 6500rpm.
Probably stating the obvious here but neither car has any native electronics of any sort! My aftermarket ECU, the lamik TCU (when funds allow!) and maybe an arduino doing some body functions (lights for example) is about as technical as they get!

[Richard.C]

Hi Mitus,

Just thought I'd reply as I have a K6 running a Chevy V8 on an 8HP from an XF, everything runs fine. I would like to get throttle blip and torque reduction implemented but that will require modified firmware on the Emerald to achieve that.

Richard

[Mitus]

Thanks Richard that's very useful to know! I just happened to stumble on an article on zeroto60's website that said you need a reliable and fast rpm input to the lamik so it can work out converter slip accurately. Wasn't sure if 20Hz was considered quick enough but looks like it is, appreciate that

For torque reduction, could you not set that as a physical output on the lamik and have a hardwired "clutch switch" input on the emerald? Or were you hoping just to do it all over CAN?

[Richard.C]

Hi, yes I believe torque reduction can be done in hard wiring but the throttle blip will need firmware anyway so I'd prefer to add them both on CAN if Emerald had time but they are very busy.

Richard

[Mitus]

Fair enough, it does make sense to use the connection you already have! Emerald are always helpful with queries and I've known them do custom firmware for people in the past. I'm sure they'll get around to it one day