Several codes and only m6 when in drive

[Nmr_fabrication]

Hi all,
I'm kinda new to this forum and first time to set all up to the tcu.
Got a 8hp70 in a Nissan Patrol with m57 272hp
Got some questions,

First I have codes showing up,

-13 power ground not connected 43-45

Like trouble code sheet says it's not connected. When I connect the 3 wires to ground, I got another set of codes from 1-6

-20 gearbox speed sensor 1
-21 gearbox speed sensor 2

Wires are good from connector to connector.

-31 oil temp sensor

When key switch to off temp goes to -40. Key switch to on its stuck on 55°c

68 internal malfunction off controller?

-this one is gone when I connect ground wires 43-45

Can change Selector, p,n,r,d manual etc, but no drive in R and display shows M6 also don't going forwards in 6.

10 pin selector set in tcu as can type 32.
Have followed instructions page with the xdf file etc. Do I need to get a base map on or is it allready programmed.

Kinda new to all this programming so I hope someone can help me out.
Made the loom myself, I'm pretty precise, and checked everything very good.

[Nmr_fabrication]

And a photo of the live data.
I hope someone is seeing the problem

[M4comp]

I would start at the trans connector. With the trans connector disconnected looking at pin 14, internally that is tied to A12,A13,B10,B11,B12,B13 (the solder pins)

Take your ohm meter and measure the resistance across pin 1 on the trans connector to pin 13 (you should have a reading here). Then pin 1 to pin 14 you should show open. If pin 1 shows any continuity between any other pin(s) you have an issue in the trans.

On the TCU connector, you don't mention if you have a pre-made harness or you built it.
Pins 43 44 45 all are required to be connected directly to the battery gnd.
Pins 1 2 3 all are required to be connected and can be connected to battery or chassis ground.
Pins 51 52 53 are all required to be connected directly to the battey positive no switch (use a fuse).
Pin 35 is your switch on/off connection to wake up TCU

The trans is in fault so no gears and only 6th will be used (normal until errors are resolved)

Check these items and post back.

[M4comp]

The next item to check is what file did you use?
In your pic you don't have a tune loaded, did you upload a calibration file or trying to use the default file? Also note if you bought it from the US I would get a file from the Turbolamik website and upload that one.

[Nmr_fabrication]

I would start at the trans connector. With the trans connector disconnected looking at pin 14, internally that is tied to A12,A13,B10,B11,B12,B13 (the solder pins)

Take your ohm meter and measure the resistance across pin 1 on the trans connector to pin 13 (you should have a reading here). Then pin 1 to pin 14 you should show open. If pin 1 shows any continuity between any other pin(s) you have an issue in the trans.

On the TCU connector, you don't mention if you have a pre-made harness or you built it.
Pins 43 44 45 all are required to be connected directly to the battery gnd.
Pins 1 2 3 all are required to be connected and can be connected to battery or chassis ground.
Pins 51 52 53 are all required to be connected directly to the battey positive no switch (use a fuse).
Pin 35 is your switch on/off connection to wake up TCU

The trans is in fault so no gears and only 6th will be used (normal until errors are resolved)

Check these items and post back.

Thanks for this fast reply!
I'm going to check resistance, I'll be back with that info!

Im going to Pins 43 44 45 to battery ground!
Strange about this one was, when I connect it to chassis ground codes 1-6 showed up.. weird.
But know I know it's ment to be on ground.
Rest of the power/ground supplies are good.

[M4comp]

The solenoids have a resistance to them that is attempted to be calculated. Running the gnd thru the chassis will affect this value and cause issues.

[Nmr_fabrication]

The next item to check is what file did you use?
In your pic you don't have a tune loaded, did you upload a calibration file or trying to use the default file? Also note if you bought it from the US I would get a file from the Turbolamik website and upload that one.

I am sounding like a newbe I'm sorry
But this is the first time I am working with this program.

I have followed the manual on the site,
pc software --> tuner pro, and then I did the xdf, adx stuff. But did not upload a tune or something. Thought there would be a base map on the tcu or something. Can't find any description on how to load a tune file into the tcu.

I found the base map in the download section
( Base map 8hp70 3V5.zip. )
But no idea to get this into the tcu.
Have searched, but can't find a how to.
As i am looking to the top of the screen (no bin selected) im assuming i can put in the base map as "import bin"? Dont want to mess up the system, just checking.

Is it normal that the car won't drive in 6th gear mode (fail mode) I can change gears, p,n,r,d but car wont move at all... thought this would be a limp home mode and the car must drive in this scenario..

Any way. I start with checking the resistance on the gearbox plug, and load in a base map.

[Nmr_fabrication]

The solenoids have a resistance to them that is attempted to be calculated. Running the gnd thru the chassis will affect this value and cause issues.

Clear! Very curious to learn about this whole lamik setup.
I will run all the ground wires to the battery. Just to be sure.

[Nmr_fabrication]

Update on this one.
Allready Got another pcb board for a customer and solder it in another unit. In combination with another mechatronic and plugged it in next to the car and it works.
Only reading temp now on the display, no codes appear.
Going to put it in the car, see what it does.
Only need to pick up some potting compound somewhere. Will the compound that can be used for polyester bounding also be good?
Thanks for the help.

[M4comp]

I would say to buy a cheese whiz can of 'Right Stuff' and cover it with that. If you epoxy it you'll be looking for a new backplate if you need to get in there. I normally a lay a catapiller over the solder areas and seal it up and put a bit over the hole on the pcb to keep fluid out. The fluid by itself is ok you just want to keep any metal bits from building up on the contacts.